Arbois Chardonnay 'Les Crêts' Michel Gahier, Jura, 2014 Organic
Michel Gahier, Arbois
For a generation Michel Gahier and his family have been quietly working with some of the region’s most sought-after terroirs. The Gahiers have lived in Montigny-les-Arsures, just outside of Arbois, since the 16thcentury, and the family domaine dates back to 1874. Michel is the first of his family to bottle wine. He currently owns 7.5 ha of vines, farmed organically.
Like a growing number of producers in the Jura, Michel decided to make vin naturel rather than a homogenized, uniform style of wine as he feels it’s the best way to express his grapes and land. Blessed to work with some great parcels of old vines from vineyard sites that inspire local legend, Michel works the soil with three horses and plants native cover crops between the vines (“the earth chooses the plants it wants”).
From the vineyard site “Grand Vergers” comes one of the Jura’s finest Trousseaus. The soils are heavier clay over limestone, yet different from the blue marls of Pupillin that better suit Ploussard vines. Michael’s wines are aged in a combination of acacia and American oak barrels with very little sulphur addition.
Finely-detailed aromas of white flowers, pears, chalk dust and chopped almonds, which stamp the Jura's hallmark all over it without it being as overtly oxidative as some Arbois Chardonnays can be. It's there, but in the background, providing a slight smoky hint, but this wine is all about freshness and finesse and reminds us of the mineral-etched white Burgundies of Jean-Marc Roulot and Domaine Leflaive. There's a keen acid streak that empowers the wine in equal measure to the ripe, white-fleshed fruits that linger so moreishly on the finish.
Grape: 100% Chardonnay