Arbois Trousseau 'Les Grands Vergets' Michel Gahier, Jura, 2017 Organic
Michel Gahier, Arbois
For a generation Michel Gahier and his family have been quietly working with some of the region’s most sought-after terroirs. The Gahiers have lived in Montigny-les-Arsures, just outside of Arbois, since the 16thcentury, and the family domaine dates back to 1874. Michel is the first of his family to bottle wine. He currently owns 7.5 ha of vines, farmed organically.
Like a growing number of producers in the Jura, Michel decided to make vin naturel rather than a homogenized, uniform style of wine as he feels it’s the best way to express his grapes and land. Blessed to work with some great parcels of old vines from vineyard sites that inspire local legend, Michel works the soil with three horses and plants native cover crops between the vines (“the earth chooses the plants it wants”).
From the vineyard site “Grand Vergers” comes one of the Jura’s finest Trousseaus. The soils are heavier clay over limestone, not unlike those in a 1er cru of Burgundy, yet different from the blue marls of Pupillin that better suit Ploussard vines. Michael’s wines are aged in a combination of acacia and American oak barrels with very little sulphur addition.
Grands Vergers” represents Gahier’s oldest Trousseau: 80-year-old vines in a south-facing parcel contiguous with Puffeney’s legendary “Les Berangeres” vineyard. Each vintage, it is the clear star among Michel’s reds, showing incredible depth and length, and this 2017 is no exception. While it displays impressive old-vines concentration and deeply succulent fruit, there is actually more lift on the palate than the previous wines, and it is this hallmark of riveting tension that sets “Grands Vergers” apart. Furthermore, this cuvee puts to rest definitively the notion that sans-soufre wines cannot age; every single bottle of older “Grands Vergers” we have experienced (and there have been many) has been eye-poppingly vibrant.
Grape: 100% Trousseau