Chablis Grand Cru "Valmur" Vincent Dauvissat 2018
Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis
A strong case can be made that, of all the places where Chardonnay is grown, Chablis produces the most distinctive wines. Even “village” wines from good producers have a unique charm and minerality. But in the hands of a true master, working with old vines and elite vineyards, Chablis can scale heights unknown to other Chardonnay makers.
Such is the case with the wines of René & Vincent Dauvissat. Along with François Raveneau, Dauvissat is unquestionably Chablis’ greatest producer, owning some of the oldest and best vineyards,
The Valmur vineyard covers around 12-hectares in total, forming a small valley in the heart of the Grand Cru slope. It's quite literally wedged between Vaudésir and Grenouilles on its left and Les Clos on its right. With an extreme mesoclimate, Valmur gets very cold in winter and hotter than the regional average in summer. It's a site that lends itself to authoritative and intense wines of serious depth and power. The Domaine farms a 0.6-hectare parcel that was planted in 1978. Situated next door to the vines of Raveneau, Moreau's plot is a cooler, shaded site that takes time to warm up. This fact, combined with the steepness of the slope, leads to the wine's strong mineral, saline imprint, which shines through the depth and texture.
It's actually very Puligny in style with lovely, delicate florals (vine flowers and jasmine), mixed citrus and subtle stone fruits. The finish is super-fine with the class you expect of Grand Cru. Superb.