Château Chalon, Domaine Marie-Pierre Chevassu, Jura 2012
Domaine Marie-Pierre Chevaneu , Côtes du Jura
Marie-Pierre is a young vigneronne whose wines are definitely old style. If you like your Poulsard orange and rustic and your Chardonnay to have that “Jaune” ne sais quoi, from a sojourn under a yeasty veil, you’ll love the uncompromising earthiness of these Jurassic wines. At just 50 hectares Chateau Chalon is home to the extraordinary Vin Jaune (“Yellow wine”), made from the Savagnin varietal. The grapes are harvested late and then aged in small oak barrels for a minimum of 6 years and 3 months (although some producers age their Vin Jaune for up to 10 years in barrel). The slightly porous oak barrels are, by design, not completely airtight, and a considerable portion – nearly 40% - of the wine therefore evaporates over the years (the so-called “angels share). No topping up is done. A thick layer of flor yeast, known as the voile or veil, looking like a white foam, develops on the surface of the wine and helps prevent excessive oxidation. This aging method, similar to that used for fino sherry in Spain, but in France specific to the Jura, allows the wine to acquire its distinct flavours, characteristic of walnut, almond, spice and apple.
62cl - Clavelin