Anjou Blanc "Ronceray" Château de Plaisance, Guy Rochais 2020
Château de Plaisance, Guy Rochais
Located on the Butte de Chaume, commune of Rochefort-sur-Loire, Plaisance is a prestigious and biodynamic domain of 25 hectares, including 21 hectares of Chenin on the AOC thatch, quarter of thatch and even Savennières. Guy Rochais, its owner, was always enigmatic and mischievous, preferring to evoke the future Ronceray appellation, a dry white anjou for keeping, rather than the sale of his estate. Obviously heartbreaking for this exceptional and rebellious winegrower, pinned down in his time by the INAO for its "Guy Rochais dry stubble" which he renamed Insolent de Chaume. The AOC Chaume can only be applied to a sweet wine, that is the law.
The name Ronceray refers to the abbey that once owned Quarts de Chaume, and it has become a name that all producers making dry wine here intend to use on a communal basis, at least until Quarts de Chaume can legally exist in this dry guise. This super site so prized for years as a source for sweet Chenin is having a marvellous re-invention as an exciting spot for producing Chenin in its dry form. The results are sublime and this first vintage for Vanessa from some lovely old vines is a triumph. At once reassuringly textured with ample feel and breadth - but dry as a bone and with a lovely tight line of brisk freshness running right through it. Soft, happy and desperately moreish. This is a lovely 'step-up' in complexity and intensity from her delicious Anjou Blanc.
Grape: 100% Chenin Blanc