Marsala Vergine Riserva, Marco de Bartoli, Western Sicily 1988 (50cl)
Marco de Bartoli, Western Sicily (Organic)
Marco De Bartoli was considered one of Sicily’s winemaking pioneers for his long-standing commitment to the native Sicilian white grape varieties, Grillo and Zibibbo. He has been succeeded by his sons, who have carried on the tradition of producing wines from two separate estates: the first in Marsala, in Sicily’s south-west corner, the other on the small island of Pantelleria, south-east of Sicily. The belief in the value of traditional methods of production of these grapes and the wines is complemented by an equally strong belief in the future of Sicily as one of Europe’s most vital viticultural areas. Grillo, which historically forms the basis of Marsala’s classic wines, has been grown on the island since Phoenician times. From the Samperi winery, in the Contrada Samperi just west of Marsala, Marco De Bartoli produces several wines from this grape. Like so many of our producers de Bartoli are trying to rediscover the natural flavour of wine using native yeasts and low sulphur during the vinification. Out of this ambition was born the Integer wines. One’s initial impression is of the uncompromising purity of the wine in the mouth – no corners have been cut, no corners of the palate will remain unchallenged by the wine.
1988 as indicated this is a vintage wine but one that has been aged in old oak for 20 plus years. The fermentation here is in oak and chestnut casks at cellar temperature – so there will be highs and lows involved. It is a vergine, i.e., no mistella, but it was lightly fortified. The date given is the date of fortification, not the vintage of the grapes … Very nutty, slightly spirity but with great depth with roasted coffee beans, citrus rind, and pleasant acetic touches. Tastes attractively dry after all these years.
Grape: 100% Grillo