Tara Chardonnay , Vina Ventisquero, Atacama 2022

Vina Ventisquero, Atacama

Ventisquero was named ‘New World Winery of the Year’ by Wine Enthusiast this year and no small part of that was down to the extraordinary Tara project it is operating in the Atacama desert. Here, where it hasn’t rained in 50 years, the challenges to Alejandro Galaz, the estate’s specialist oenologist for cool climate wines, are off the scale. Only 2% of the first plantings survived here, but the wines they produced were extraordinary – as are all the subsequent Tara wines. In a special visit to the vineyards Geoffrey Dean discovers how these unique soils produce minerality and saline characters in the wines that were tasted, naturally enough, in a large hole in the ground.

Huge credit for the success of Tara must go to Alejandro Galaz, who has been making wine for Ventisquero since 2006 and is its specialist oenologist for cool climate wines. Tara is very much cool climate, although it has been a joint enterprise between him and Felipe Tosso, Ventisquero's head winemaker. I spent a fascinating day with Galaz in Huasco, driving up and back with him from La Serena, which is 260km to the south.

50% in foudres, 50% in concrete eggs.

Strong citrus notes with saline minerality and linear acidity. Precise focus with long clean finish.

Grape: 100% Chardonnay

Organic